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Model Kits
#46
Very nice Airbrushing. So you sprayed the panel lines black after a primer coat. Did you then sand that down? What Airbrush Spray Booth did you get?
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#47
The spray booth is just a generic one from eBay that cost $99 shipped. It's about 40cm wide by 30 high. I'm a naughty boy and don't use primer because it's extra effort and generally Tamiya paints stick well to everything whenever I've used them. I sprayed the black over the panel lines is supposed to get gradually covered over with the blue until it's only just visible to represent fading. It's subtle but does make a big difference.
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#48
Is that light built in the Spray Booth or something you added?
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#49
Built in though it doesn't travel well. I use two magnetic LEDs to light from the front for less shadows where I'm painting.
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#50
Thats a great idea!
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#51
This isn't a proper update yet, but I just resprayed the bottom half of the plane and the other parts with Super Clear III (I think I forgot to mention that I bought some Tongue ) and it is quite shiny but also feels great when dry. I tested on the non-transparent access hatch you can see under the bottom wing by really caking it on and all I can say is wow.

[Image: 20190312_003128.jpg]

Plane is still drying, but once that is done I can spray the top half of the plane and add decals after dry. Once decals are on, I will start the 'chipping' process by putting small amounts of silver paint over areas that would theoretically have paint chip off over time either from handling by ground crew or the wind. I doubt the panels over the gun bays would be as rough as other Spitfires though - it doesn't have any guns! It only 'shoots' photographs which I think makes this a lot more beautiful than the better-known marks.

EDIT:

[Image: 20190312_015208.jpg]

I really can't stress enough how good this stuff feels and looks. It's not super glossy like a car as I had expected while it was drying but it does have a bit of sheen which gives reflected light a soft glow. I wish cameras were able to accurately capture what the human eye can perceive because it looks a lot better on my desk than on screen :c

- Tree
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#52
Now I can see how the panel lines faintly show through. I think I have only seen where panel lines were only washed into the groove which I see now is too pure for replicating a used model. Did you thin out the top coat a lot so the shadow would show through or is it some transparent paint? Also what manufacturer is Super Clear III?
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#53
I swear I posted a reply already but it must have disappeared...

I do plan to use panel wash later on as well as weathering powders and oil paints. I use Tamiya acrylics thinned 1:1 with isopropyl alcohol for airbrushing. My airbrush is a dual action type where pushing down on the trigger to allow air to flow doesn't automatically flow paint. To get paint as well you have to slide the trigger back, that way you can control how much is going on at what pressure. It's easier to avoid pooling on surfaces and losing details and as a general rule I'll only ever use a quarter or half back trigger for colour (though with the black lines I used the screw at the end of the airbrush to stop the trigger coming very far back just in case). The thinned Tamiya paint is a tiny bit thicker than water but still has good coverage. I went over the whole plane with several light coats, doing it one area at a time i.e. tops of wings, bottoms of wings etc. until the black underneath was just visible. Clear coats tend to make things darker/higher contrast though so the effect is a little more visible than it was originally.

Super Clear III is made by Gunze in their Mr. Color range as GX 100. 101 and 102 are satin and matte from memory but do check before you go ordering the latter two.

- Tree
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#54
Thanks Tree
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#55
Lost a friend a few days ago so haven't been motivated to do anything and also had at the happy-juice. Watching paint dry atm, will let you know what happens.

EDIT:
[Image: fe642ef686.png]

Decals on, silver for paint chips on, second clear coat on. Ready for panel washes and weathering powders.
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#56
There are never enough hours in the day/night and there just seems to be less as each passes. Nerve wracking experience trying to apply a panel wash of oil paint thinned with Humbrol enamel thinners. When it was wet it seemed like it would be a good effect but it dried a bit whiter than I ever could have imagined. It could just be the matte effect it has compared to the surrounding paint but it isn't so visible now that I've wiped away the bits that weren't in the lines. I used a brown oil which in hindsight might have been better as black but I suppose I know for next time - I just wanted that dirty/rusty sort of feel from it though and black doesn't really do that. I was scared the whole time through that it would reactivate the clear but it appears to be safe and sound - another point to Super Clear III for being so good to me.

[Image: e0cde45c57.png]

I was reading that PR spits never got as dirty and chipped as regular fighters but visually it's a bit boring and not helping to improve my skills if it stays as showroom finish. The Italeri Vb ended up with an almost entirely black belly from attempting to add oil streaks from the radiators. Not sure how to attempt it on this one as the flaps were built in the out position and there's not enough clearance for a hairy stick really. The end draws near...

KGV should be here by next week but it will go straight to the stash for a while until I'm comfortable building ships - a few to practice on beforehand though with the Revell KGV, Airfix Queen Elizabeth, Canberra and Mauretania.

- Tree
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#57
Yeah, the YouTube videos show how easy it is to paint panel lines with washes but I tried it once and it would take a lot of practice to get any good at it. Does Humbrol or Tamiya make a 'Wash' already made instead of thinning out paint in hopes that the Thinner doesn't affect the finish? Maybe the Washes would go on and off easier.
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#58
Tamiya make washes as does a brand called Mig but the price vs quantity with shipping on top is a bit too steep for me.
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